Tamales

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American snapshot: Masa in Pico Union (and all over town)

Masa harina on the shelf at a small grocery store in Pico-Union, waiting to be mixed and eaten

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Bags of masa harina on the shelf at a small grocery store in Pico Union, waiting to be mixed and eaten

Hurry, it’s time! Time to shop for ingredients for last-minute tamaleadas, time to pick up those orders if you’re ordering them, time to read (or not) the annual onslaught of tamales-related holiday stories that crop up in the media this time of year.

But I’m not above a little gratuitous masa harina shot. There are tamal purists who scoff at the use of masa harina, preferring to grind their own corn (“It tastes like tamales you’d buy at 7-11,” a corn-grinding friend snapped once when I admitted using it), but who has time? Plus once it’s mixed and ready to steam, it tastes kind of good raw. Buen provecho, tamal makers and eaters.

More gratuitous lunchtime tamales

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Cuban-style tamales on Noche Buena, December 24, 2010

The holidays aren’t over yet, right?

I’m close to hitting the wall, but not until I finish the leftover Cuban-style tamales that graced my parents’ Noche Buena table the other night. These are sweet corn tamales with pork, mushy and slightly crumbly and very good, though not easy to make (to do it right, one has to grind the corn).

I usually make Mexican-style tamales, which can be whipped up from dry masa mix and still taste spectacular. But this year my mother sought out the work of a professional, i.e. a woman in Bell who makes Cuban tamales and sells them underground via one of the local carnicerias. So to the unnamed tamal lady, mil gracias. They were delicious. I only wish I’d had more room for them amid the lechón, yuca, black beans and rice.

For anyone who is feeling ambitious and has yet to completely burn out on tamales, here are a couple of Cuban tamal recipes. One calls for either fresh corn or frozen kernels and requires a food processor, unless grinding corn by hand is your thing. Another employs a shortcut mix of canned creamed corn and cornmeal. The latter trick is something my late grandfather adopted after grinding corn became too much of a chore, and the results weren’t bad. Some people have been known to add a little boniato (sweet potato) to sweeten the masa, but the corn should do.

Buen provecho and good luck. As for me, I’ll be heating up the leftovers from Bell.

Tamales: Tales, tips, and a recipe

Photo by Adolfo Guzman-Lopez/KPCC

Patricia Zarate, manager of Homegirl Café, readies a batch of tamales. December 2010

The Latino culture site Remezcla tweeted this today:

Food of the Year: Tamales http://ht.ly/3toSm

Okay, so maybe it’s a stretch. But tamales are the food of the moment, at least in much of Los Angeles, where people are in different stages of making them, ordering them, eating way too many of them, and swearing they won’t eat another one again for a whole year.

I personally haven’t reached that point yet, but the day will come.

For those who have yet to hit the masa wall, here are a couple of tamal tales for a rainy day, plus some tips and a recipe thrown in for good measure.

My KPCC colleague Adolfo Guzman-Lopez recently visited downtown L.A.’s Homegirl Café to report on the Homeboy Industries offshoot’s intensified holiday tamal production. A quote from the cafe manager:

“The shift is beginning right now and we’ll be here at least 8 hours, from 8 to 10 hours, just to supply tomorrow’s orders. Because of the holidays we have plenty of orders. We will be making about 4 to 500 tamales tonight,” she said.

More tamales are in the mix: Homegirl Café will soon have a City Hall outlet and another at LAX.

Remezcla’s tweet linked to a short piece on a Chicago tamalera who defies the bitter Midwest winter to start selling tamales at 5 a.m. on the street:

Besides the loin freezing cold and frost bitten feet from still trying to rock your boat shoes during the transition from Chicago fall to Chicago winter, there is also one sure fire sign that the frozen dawn is upon us. This evident manifestation is the triumphant rise of the tamale lady.

She would scoff, no doubt, at those of us hiding from the rain at the moment.

Eastside LA recently posted some tips for making tamales on a budget, down to where to find cheap chiles:

For fresh chiles, Superking is the place to beat: Pasillas @ 99¢ for 2 lbs! Now that’s a bargain. For $4.22 I got me a big pot of chiles, ready to be cleaned and roasted.

And yesterday, the folks at the bilingual parenting site SpanglishBaby tweeted this “receta básica para tamales” (basic tamales recipe), courtesy of the ubiquitous Maseca brand masa mix. From the English translation:

3 Cups Maseca® FOR TAMALES corn masa flour
2 1/4 Cups Lard or vegetable shortening*
2 1/4 Cups Chicken, beef, or pork broth (for savory tamales); or
2 1/4 Cups Lukewarm water, cinnamon tea, or anise tea (for sweet tamales)
1 1/2 Tbsp. Salt (if tamales are savory)
1 1/2 tsp. Baking powder

*If you prefer, you may substitute 2 1/4 cups of corn oil.

Had enough tamales yet?

Tamales, champurrado, a cold December night

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Cold revelers, hot tamales. December 3, 2010

Tonight I braved the southbound I-5 to make it to a favorite annual holiday event in San Diego, December Nights, which draws what seems like half the city to Balboa Park for two nights to eat, take in the lights, duck into the museums and listen to carolers. Mostly, though, to eat.

My favorite tamales cart was parked near the same spot where it was last year. There’s nothing like an outdoor meal of steaming tamales and hot champurrado on a cold, damp night.

Got masa?

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Dry masa mix on the shelf in a Westlake grocery store, November 2010

Now that the turkey thing is behind us, it’s officially tamales season, the time of year when bags of dry masa mix begin flying off grocery shelves. Ready for your tamaleadas?

I’m not, but I’ll be hitting the grocery store this weekend for my Maseca and hojas.

See you back here Monday. In the meantime, I’ve tracked down a couple of good tamal-making videos, one for Mexican-style tamales (starring a hip hop-loving chef), and one for Central American-style tamales. No language comprehension necessary – the demonstrations are easy to follow.

A good holiday weekend to all.

Tamales mania in El Sereno

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Tamal vendors in action at the L.A. Tamale Throwdown, November 12, 2010

Tamales! What can be better this time of year? I ventured over to the L.A. Tamale Throwdown in El Sereno after it kicked off this afternoon to take a few photos and, well, eat tamales.

Like most other people who make tamales for the holidays, I make them once a year – just once, because it’s hard work – and am usually sick of them by the day after Christmas. But it’s been almost a year, as I’m sure it has for many tamalistas, so now is the time to start indulging again.

The event itself was a hoot: vendor stands selling tamales, aguas frescas, pupusas and other staples, great music, artesanias, and a trophy-laden table of lucky judges onstage, eating steaming plates submitted by the city’s tamal purveyors. (Don’t know what the grand prize is, but I’ll bet it’s not a year’s supply of masa.) Best thing is that it runs through 10 p.m. Saturday.

My favorite innovative tamal tonight? The chile relleno tamal, with the masa stuffed inside the chile, then wrapped in a corn husk and cooked like a tamal. Mmmm.

The tamales are being served in the parking lot of Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, Rose Hills at 4255 Browne Avenue in Los Angeles. Entry is free, though the tamales aren’t.

There is a Facebook page with more details.

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Tamales before

Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

Tamales after