Rabo encendido

RECENT POSTS

Five ethnic food tastes worth acquiring: The meat edition

Photo by Manogamo/Flickr (Creative Commons)

A bowl of raw kitfo, at right, with spongy injera bread

Last week, Multi-American delved once more into that culinary landscape where some diners fear to tread, the territory of the unsung ethnic delicacy.

These are the dishes that don’t necessarily sound good, look good or or even smell good, but are worth trying because they are unexpectedly delicious.

Our first series in March covered a range of foods, from drinks like the Vietnamese avocado milkshake to main dishes like arroz con calamares en su tinta, a particularly unattractive squid dish served in several Latin American countries.

The series last week focused on meat dishes, cooked, raw and canned. True to form, none sound like anything one would rush out to try, but don’t be put off. For any carnivores who might have missed these treats, here they are in a convenient list. Dig in.

  • The clever and delicious Spam musubi, which looks like a giant piece of sushi and is a popular snack in Hawaii. In a typical preparation, the sliced Spam is grilled and simmered in a mix of soy sauce, sugar, and rice wine. It is then placed atop a giant piece of Spam-sized molded sushi rice (there is actually a gadget called a Spam musubi rice press) and, in the simplest version, the entire thing is wrapped with a piece of nori, the dried seaweed wrapper common to sushi. Sounds odd, looks odd, tastes great.
  • The very red, very raw chee kufta, popular in Armenian and Turkish cuisines (and known as kibbeh nayyeh in Lebanon). Eaten as a cold appetizer, it consists of ground beef or lamb mixed with fine wheat bulghur and seasonings, which in the typical Armenian preparation consist of red and black pepper, water and salt. It is then garnished with scallions, parsley and a generous amount of olive oil. The trick to a great chee kufta is very lean meat, preferably ground by the cook. One reader described it as “a special luscious dish.” Continue reading

More ethnic food tastes worth acquiring: Rabo encendido

This tail is on fire? Rabo encendido, May 2011. Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC

We’re on the second-to-last day of a week of posts celebrating unsung ethnic delicacies, this time those raw, cooked or canned meat dishes that don’t look or sound great, but taste delicious.

Today’s offering, rabo encendido, neither looks nor sounds good. Its name, which translates to “tail on fire,” ranked third on a recent list of seven oddly named foods in Dominican cuisine.

But what sounds like a painful bovine affliction is in fact a tasty stew of beef oxtail in a mildly spicy tomato sauce. It’s popular throughout the Caribbean, found in Cuban, Puerto Rican and Dominican cooking. As with other oxtail preparations around the globe, it’s a dish born of necessity, the product of creative cooks who couldn’t afford to waste a scrap of meat and made it taste good.

All that said, “tail on fire” is not the most appetizing thing to look at. The name is bad enough. There is the anatomical location of the tail to consider, not ideal. Then there are the knobby, irregularly shaped bones, which you must dig into to find the meat in the nooks and crannies.

Once you find it, though, it’s brilliant. The meat on a good rabo encendido is moist, has a melt-in-your-mouth consistency and is well worth digging for. One can separate the true carnivores from the herbivorous wimps over a plate of rabo encendido. The carnivores will pick it clean; occasional meat eaters like me will get chided for leaving a meal’s worth of meat on the bone.

One caveat: Rabo encendido is really not that “on fire.” The Caribbean palate has a relatively low heat tolerance, so those accustomed to the spice level of Mexican food may want to doctor it with a little hot sauce. But the mild tomato-based sauce is good in its own right, seasoned with savory spices and the standard cooking base with onions, peppers and garlic known as sofrito.

It takes some work to make, so it’s best tried at a restaurant. In Southern California, it’s relatively standard fare at most traditional Cuban eateries. But here are recipes for a Cuban-style preparation and a Dominican-style one if anyone wants to try this at home.

Have an unattractive or unappetizing-sounding dish to share that’s worth trying? Please post a suggestion.